When is Wine Natural?

I’m married, but good wine is always trying to seduce me. The latest chapter in this unfolding story of seduction is about natural wine.

Wait a sec, some of  you might be saying. There’s no such thing as wine that can really be called “natural.”  British wine expert Robert Joseph would agree. He was quoted in an Agence France-Presse article recently: “These are all things that don’t exist – natural wines, the tooth fairy and Father Christmas.” A statement like that can be a downer at Christmas parties, to be sure, and should not be muttered within earshot of young children.

Others, possibly more naive than Mr. Joseph, argue that all wine is natural. “Wine is just made of grapes, right?” they contend. You might be shocked to learn, as I was, that big-time wine production has more in common with factory farming than a small family business, and factory farming means pesticides, chemicals and lots of other stuff in your wine besides grapes.

If you already eat organically, you might want to try going organic with your wine, but …

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